Types of Facials: Which One Do You Need?

The classic facial — "European facial" is one of the names it goes by — is the base treatment of the facial menu, and its name is menu language: we could not find any FDA or federal definition of the facial names on spa menus.

FDA says the term "cosmeceutical" has no meaning under the law — a product is a cosmetic, a drug, or both — and cosmetics are not FDA-approved and are not meant to affect body structure or function.

We could not find a federal definition of a "medical-grade facial" either.

What a "classic" facial includes is therefore whatever the individual spa puts into it.

One manufacturer's version of the base shape: Hydrafacial's provider page describes its base treatment as cleanse and exfoliate, peel, extract, hydrate.

Because the name settles nothing, ask a specific office what its classic facial includes before you book — our facial guide covers the full med spa facial step by step.

Who performs this type is the other thing the name does not tell you: in North Carolina, the statutory definition of "esthetics" explicitly includes giving facials — the last section of this page covers that rule, and its limits.

Deep-cleansing and acne facials are named for the concern they target rather than a single technique, so the useful question is what the menu's steps actually are.

Extraction is a step Hydrafacial lists in its base treatment, and acid-based exfoliation belongs to the peel facials covered below, where the published trial evidence for breakouts sits.

What the evidence says comes from dermatology rather than the facial menu.

AAD lists chemical peels among the treatments dermatologists use for some types of acne, and a 2018 BMJ Open review of 12 randomized trials (387 participants) found commonly used peels appear similarly effective and well tolerated for mild-to-moderate acne — with the evidence quality rated very low to moderate and no peel shown superior to another.

Two limits are worth holding onto.

AAD says microdermabrasion won't treat acne scars, though it can even out skin tone alongside other acne-scar treatments, while Cleveland Clinic counts mild scars among what both microdermabrasion and dermaplaning are used for — the sources disagree at the edges, so treat "mild" as the operative word.

AAD's scar guidance adds that effective treatment depends on the scar type: ice pick scars need different treatment than rolling scars.

If scars are the real concern, our acne facial guide covers that type in depth, and our acne scars guide covers the scars themselves.

HydraFacial is the hydrating facial our research documents in detail — it has its own HydraFacial guide, so this is the short version.

Hydrafacial describes its Platinum treatment as seven therapies in one: lymphatic drainage, microdermabrasion-style exfoliation, a gentle peel, extraction, targeted booster serums, LED light therapy and a hydration infusion.

The company's provider page reserves the booster serums and blue or red LED for the Deluxe and Platinum tiers, and lymphatic drainage for Platinum alone; the base treatment cleanses and exfoliates, peels, extracts and hydrates.

The company says the treatment works through patented disposable "HydroPeel" tips in different exfoliation levels — gentler tips for first-time, dry or sensitive skin, more aggressive ones for dull, thick or oily skin.

Treat that as the manufacturer describing its own service — the same caution applies to the pore and fine-line percentages on Hydrafacial's results page, which are participant-reported figures citing company data on file and a 2018 study, not peer-reviewed label data.

Two anchors help you read the menu.

Regulatorily, Hydrafacial's devices are listed with FDA under product code GFE ("Brush, Dermabrasion, Powered", 21 CFR 878.4820), a Class I device category exempt from 510(k) premarket notification — registered and listed, rather than reviewed and cleared for specific uses.

On price, the company's device page publishes suggested retail prices of $250 for a Deluxe treatment and $325 for a Platinum treatment, and notes that actual provider prices vary.

"Oxygen facial" is the other name in this slot, and our research came up empty there: we did not find independent evidence summaries for oxygen facials, nor an independent source on HydraFacial's side effects or how often to repeat it.

Ask any provider you consult what their version involves.

Three facial types share one job — removing the outermost skin — at different depths. Dermaplaning shaves away the uppermost layers of skin with a blade; Cleveland Clinic describes it as a minimally invasive procedure used for dull skin, fine lines, mild acne scars and peach fuzz, with any hair removal temporary because the hair grows back.

It usually isn't painful, and a session can run from a few minutes to 90 minutes depending on the area treated.

Cleveland Clinic lists the risks as infection, scarring and skin discoloration, and suggests talking to a provider first if you have active acne, cold sore outbreaks, eczema, psoriasis, moles or skin growths, or skin burns or rashes.

Dermaplaning may not reduce deep or raised acne scars, where more intensive treatments such as laser may be needed.

Microdermabrasion exfoliates the uppermost skin layer mechanically instead: tiny crystals sprayed through a tube and vacuumed back up, or a diamond-tipped wand that abrades and vacuums debris.

Cleveland Clinic says it needs no anesthetic, takes about 30 to 40 minutes, and can leave skin red, swollen or sensitive for up to 24 hours.

It can make age spots, enlarged pores and blackheads, fine lines, mild scars, uneven tone and sun damage less noticeable, with bruising, discoloration, dry skin and sun sensitivity as possible downsides; monthly treatments can help maintain results, but it does not stop skin aging.

Our microdermabrasion guide covers it in depth.

Peel facials put a chemical exfoliant where the blade and the wand would go, and depth decides everything.

Chemical peels are classified by wound depth: superficial peels reach the epidermis only, medium-depth peels the full epidermis and papillary dermis, and deep peels down to the mid-reticular dermis.

Typical superficial agents are alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid at 30 to 50%, plus lactic and salicylic acid; the most common medium-depth peels are 70% glycolic acid and 35 to 50% TCA (trichloroacetic acid).

TCA strength sets the depth — only low-strength TCA, about 10 to 20%, is a superficial peel — so a menu that says "TCA peel" without a percentage is not telling you the downtime.

A light peel heals in 1 to 7 days, and AAD notes 3 to 5 peels every 2 to 5 weeks may be needed.

Deep peels are the boundary of the category: they use TCA above 50% or a Baker-Gordon phenol peel, and AAD says a deep peel is done under general anesthesia in a surgical setting.

Our chemical peel guide covers depths, recovery and cost in full.

The "lifting" end of the menu runs on two device families.

Microcurrent facial devices are FDA-regulated as Class II "transcutaneous electrical stimulators for aesthetic purposes" (product code NFO, 21 CFR 882.5890), and the clearance wording is for "facial and neck stimulation" for over-the-counter cosmetic use — the NuFACE Trinity, for example, was cleared under that product code in October 2018 (K181008).

Stimulation is what the clearance covers, not a lifting result.

A 2026 review of at-home skin devices — LED, radiofrequency, microcurrent, low-energy laser and IPL — in Facial Plastic Surgery found a favorable safety profile but only modest efficacy, with results more gradual and less pronounced than professional treatments.

LED facials overlap with red-light therapy, which the American Academy of Dermatology says is offered by a few dermatologists for acne, wrinkles and hair loss.

AAD adds that in-office red light is more powerful than at-home devices, and that most at-home LED devices are considered safe for home use.

Our microcurrent facial guide and red light therapy guide cover both in depth.

Matched by concern, the menu sorts out like this:

• Dullness or rough texture. The surface exfoliators aim here: dermaplaning is used for dull skin, microdermabrasion can make uneven tone and enlarged pores less noticeable, and chemical peels are on AAD's list for dull complexion and rough skin.
• Dark spots and discoloration. AAD lists chemical peels for age spots, discoloration, freckles and melasma; Cleveland Clinic counts age spots among what microdermabrasion can make less noticeable.
• Fine lines. AAD lists peels for fine lines, especially under the eyes and around the mouth; dermaplaning is also used for fine lines, and AAD says a few dermatologists offer red-light therapy for wrinkles. Know the ceiling: ASPS says chemical peels cannot treat deep facial lines or wrinkles.
• Active acne or acne scars. Peels have trial evidence for mild-to-moderate acne, microdermabrasion is not an acne-scar treatment per AAD, and problems beneath the surface may need something deeper — Cleveland Clinic's depth ladder runs from microdermabrasion (top skin layer only) to chemical peels (deeper) to microneedling (deeper still, and a candidate for problems like acne scars).
• Sagging. The weakest fit for a facial: ASPS says peels cannot significantly tighten loose or sagging skin, and the microcurrent clearance covers stimulation rather than lifting. Skin tightening is its own category — see our skin tightening guide.

Who may perform the facial you book is a state-by-state question.

Our research verified one state's rule in detail: North Carolina's statutory definition of "esthetics" includes giving facials, and estheticians there may use devices such as microcurrent, microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, LED-type esthetic devices and microneedling with a device no deeper than 1 mm — but may not penetrate beyond the epidermis or call themselves "Medical" or "Master" estheticians.

We did not verify equivalent rules for other states, so check your own state board's scope rules.

Two questions finish the job.

Ask what the evidence is for an add-on you are pitched: AAD describes PRP — the "vampire facial" add-on — as having little evidence behind it, an unproven treatment with unanswered questions about sessions, spacing and dosing.

And ask what the price excludes: facials are priced per session, tiered menus move the total, and Hydrafacial's $250/$325 suggested retail figures are manufacturer numbers that actual provider prices may not match.

We did not find a national survey of facial prices at med spas; our facial cost guide explains how pricing works.

None of this page is medical advice.

Which facial, if any, suits your skin is a question for a licensed provider who has examined it — the types above are the vocabulary for that conversation.