Key takeaways
- Prescription topicals, hydroquinone and triple-combination cream, are the most effective, best-studied melasma treatments.
- Peels, lasers and light are add-ons to topical medication and sun protection, not stand-alone fixes.
- Cleared does not mean best-studied: some devices that name melasma did not reach a significant reduction in a 2022 laser meta-analysis.
- Laser and light treatment can trigger new darkening, and darker skin carries more risk.
- Melasma cannot be cured; it can come back, commonly after unprotected sun exposure.
What is melasma treatment and how does it work?
Melasma is a skin condition that causes patches and spots, usually on the face, that are darker than the person's natural skin tone.
This page is about treating it; the condition itself — what it looks like, what sets it off and who gets it — is covered in our guide to what melasma is.
There is no one best treatment for melasma.
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says the most effective approach often combines sun protection with topical medication and sometimes a procedure.
In that picture, what a med spa offers is the procedure layer: chemical peels, microneedling, laser and light treatments.
The devices behind the procedure layer come in a few families.
Intense pulsed light (IPL) is a non-laser light treatment that emits multiple wavelengths absorbed and converted to heat, targeting pigment, blood vessels and hair follicles; BBL is a type of IPL, not a laser.
Chemical peels treat melasma among several pigment and texture concerns.
Microneedling appears in melasma research as a delivery partner for topical depigmenting agents — the supporting studies tested the combination, not microneedling alone.
Specific cleared devices name melasma.
PicoSure's cleared 755 nm indication explicitly includes melasma, alongside nevus of Ota and nevus of Hori.
PicoWay's 510(k) clears 532 nm and 1064 nm for melasma in Fitzpatrick skin types I–IV.
Solta lists melasma among the skin-resurfacing indications for Fraxel's 1550 nm wavelength.
These are cleared devices under 510(k), not FDA-approved — the status of each branded laser this guide names: PicoSure, PicoWay, Fraxel, Clear + Brilliant and Sciton's 1927 nm.
Not every pigment device names melasma: Sciton's 1927 nm laser, used in Moxi, is cleared for benign pigmented lesions such as lentigines and freckles, and melasma is not in the cleared list.
Does the device's cleared use name melasma?
| Device | Wavelength | Melasma listed? |
|---|---|---|
| PicoSure | 755 nm | Yes, in its cleared indication |
| PicoWay | 532 nm and 1064 nm | Yes, for Fitzpatrick skin types I–IV |
| Fraxel | 1550 nm | Yes, among Solta's resurfacing indications |
| Sciton 1927 nm (used in Moxi) | 1927 nm | No; cleared for lentigines and freckles |
Cleared does not mean best-studied.
A 2020 evidence-based review of 113 studies with 6,897 participants concluded hydroquinone and triple-combination cream are the most effective, best-studied melasma treatments, while chemical peels and laser- and light-based therapies are "equal or inferior to topicals" with a higher risk of adverse effects.
Among laser-related melasma therapies, a 2023 network meta-analysis of 39 studies with 1,394 participants ranked low-energy Q-switched Nd:YAG laser plus topical medication first — an option whose top rank still includes the topicals.
The AAD frames the procedures the same way: "a few studies have found" that adding a laser or light treatment can improve results for patients who are already applying medication to their skin and protecting their skin from the sun.
The AAD lists chemical peels, microneedling, laser and light treatments and PRP as melasma add-ons, and says only a board-certified dermatologist should perform them. That is the AAD's professional recommendation as a dermatology society, not a legal rule. Who may perform procedures at a med spa is a separate question, set state by state.
Who is a good candidate for melasma treatment, and who is not?
Start with diagnosis.
The AAD puts suspected melasma that may be another condition on its list of concerns a dermatologist should see first, rather than something to treat cosmetically.
Identifying what a dark patch is comes before fading it.
Pregnancy is a clear pause.
The AAD advises waiting until after the baby is born to treat melasma that appears in pregnancy, partly because it may fade on its own after delivery.
Skin tone changes the risk calculation.
The AAD warns that some melasma treatments can irritate darker skin, which can worsen and darken melasma, and that results usually take longer in darker skin tones.
Device and drug labels carry their own limits.
PicoWay's melasma clearance runs through Fitzpatrick skin type IV. PicoSure's 532 nm delivery system is cleared for skin types I–III only.
Clear + Brilliant's own Important Safety Information says a person diagnosed with (or possibly having) melasma may not be an appropriate candidate for it, and Fraxel's listed contraindications include a tendency to keloid scars, systemic steroids and isotretinoin.
The prescription options have label limits too.
Oral tranexamic acid is prescription-only and off-label for melasma; its label contraindicates it with active thromboembolic disease, a history or intrinsic risk of thrombosis (including retinal vein or artery occlusion), or concurrent combined hormonal contraception.
The AAD says the doctor prescribing it should ask about any history of blood clots first.
Whether any of this fits a particular person is a clinical judgment that depends on skin, skin tone, history and diagnosis.
A licensed provider who has examined your skin can tell you what applies to you; this page cannot.
How much does melasma treatment cost?
Plan to pay a practice directly.
The AAD notes melasma treatment is generally not considered medically necessary, so most insurers will not cover it, and it says insurance does not cover chemical peels either.
We found no national average price for melasma treatment.
ASPS's 2025 statistics release does not report fees for minimally invasive procedures, so no current ASPS average fee exists for light-based treatments such as IPL or BBL.
The closest national anchor is ASPS's figure for laser skin resurfacing generally: an average of $1,829 per its latest statistics — a physician fee only, excluding related expenses, with the year not stated on the page.
It is not a med spa price and not a melasma-specific figure.
What a practice charges turns on things you can ask about directly: which device and handpiece, the area treated, how many sessions the plan assumes, and whether prescription topicals continue alongside the procedure.
Recommended session counts differ a lot from one device to the next, and the number of sessions is a main price driver.
The prescriptions are a separate line.
Hydroquinone and combination creams are filled at a pharmacy, and we could not confirm a national average price for them.
If you start with a non-prescription melasma product instead, the AAD advises using it for no longer than 3 to 6 months before seeing a dermatologist if results are not satisfactory.
No current national average price was found in our research for melasma treatment or for the devices this guide names, and local prices vary practice by practice. Ask each office you are considering for its per-session price, how many sessions its plan assumes, and what the prescriptions would add.
Find melasma treatment providers near you
Compare Google ratings, reviews and posted prices at med spas in your city.
How many sessions do you need, and how long do results last?
Set the timeline first: the AAD says melasma treatment usually takes 3 to 12 months to show results, and long-standing melasma can take longer.
Session counts are device-specific.
Solta says Fraxel results may show after one treatment but that up to five treatments may be appropriate, with a full-face session taking 20 to 25 minutes after about 60 minutes of topical numbing.
Solta says consumers in Clear + Brilliant studies reported visible improvement after 4 to 6 treatments — not a melasma figure, since Clear + Brilliant's own safety information says a person diagnosed with (or possibly having) melasma may not be an appropriate candidate.
We found no session count for picosecond lasers in melasma, so ask any provider quoting a number where it comes from.
How long results last is the honest hard part.
A 2022 systematic review reports that recurrence rates remain high with all melasma treatments, that no single treatment is universally effective, and that combination therapies gave the best results.
The AAD says melasma cannot be cured: treatments can fade it, but it can come back, commonly after unprotected sun exposure, and many people see it darken in summer and fade in winter.
Even the strongest prescription cream behaves this way.
Tri-Luma, the triple-combination cream, is FDA-approved for short-term treatment of moderate to severe facial melasma with sun avoidance, is not indicated for maintenance, and its label says melasma usually recurs after stopping it.
We could not confirm a specific average relapse rate; the reviews describe recurrence as high without one pooled percentage.
A practice that quotes you a precise success rate for melasma is quoting a number our research could not find.
No laser, chemical peel or light treatment cures melasma or removes it permanently. Recurrence rates remain high with every treatment group studied, which is why the research favors combinations over single 'cures,' and why treatment is built as ongoing care rather than a one-time fix.
Does melasma treatment hurt, and what is the downtime?
Pain and recovery are device-specific, and the descriptions below come from the device makers themselves, not from independent melasma trials.
Solta describes Fraxel recovery as a sunburn-like feeling for 1 to 3 hours, then itching, flaking and visible laser dots or darkening on days 1 and 2, with facial peeling usually on days 3 and 4; in its example patient, redness resolved by about day 15.
Solta advises SPF 30+ and avoiding direct sun for at least 3 months after the last treatment — aftercare that doubles as melasma care, since unprotected sun exposure is what commonly brings melasma back.
Fraxel recovery, as Solta describes it
| When | What Solta describes |
|---|---|
| First 1–3 hours | Sunburn-like feeling |
| Days 1–2 | Itching, flaking, visible laser dots or darkening |
| Days 3–4 | Facial peeling, usually |
| About day 15 | Redness resolved, in its example patient |
| At least 3 months after the last session | SPF 30+ and no direct sun |
For Clear + Brilliant — which, per its own safety information, may not be appropriate for a person diagnosed with (or possibly having) melasma — Solta lists mild-to-moderate redness and swelling right after treatment that usually resolves within 12 to 24 hours, plus itching or dryness, skin sensitivity, discomfort and rarely pinpoint bleeding.
Solta says its sessions take about 30 to 45 minutes including prep.
We found no melasma-specific pain scores or downtime data for picosecond lasers in our research.
Treat a promise of a procedure with zero recovery as a marketing claim to verify, and ask the practice what recovery its own patients usually describe.
What are the side effects and risks of melasma treatment?
The review-level finding is blunt: in the 2020 review of 113 studies, chemical peels and laser- and light-based therapies offered a higher risk of adverse effects than the topical treatments they were compared with.
The risk that matters most in melasma is rebound pigment.
Laser and light treatments carry a documented concern of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — new darkening triggered by the procedure itself — relative to topicals.
The AAD warns some melasma treatments can irritate darker skin, which can worsen and darken the melasma, and the 2022 laser meta-analysis flagged darker skin for both hyper- and hypopigmentation risk.
IPL sits in the middle of this evidence.
A 2020 meta-analysis of 8 studies with 215 patients found IPL-based combination therapy reduced MASI scores, so IPL is not simply harmful for melasma.
But in one published series of 675 Chinese patients with skin types III–IV, 2.96% developed melasma-like hyperpigmentation within 3 months of IPL, mostly people with prior pigment problems or poor sun protection.
Evidence quality also varies more than device marketing suggests.
In a 2022 meta-analysis of 22 laser studies with 694 patients, low-fluence Q-switched Nd:YAG, fractional CO2 and fractional Er:YAG lasers reduced melasma scores, while picosecond and non-ablative 1550 nm fractional lasers did not reach a significant reduction — even though the picosecond devices named above, PicoSure and PicoWay, carry melasma in their cleared indications, and Fraxel's 1550 nm, per Solta, lists it.
Reduced melasma scores
- Low-fluence Q-switched Nd:YAG
- Fractional CO2
- Fractional Er:YAG
Did not reach a significant reduction
- Picosecond lasers
- Non-ablative 1550 nm fractional lasers
Device labels list harder risks too.
Fraxel's listed adverse events include blistering and burns, temporary or permanent skin color change, eye injury, infection, keloids, prolonged redness, scarring and bruising.
Topical treatment has its own: the Tri-Luma label warns hydroquinone can cause exogenous ochronosis, a gradual blue-black darkening of the skin.
And the tranexamic acid studies report stomach upset, skin irritation and menstrual irregularities, with long-term effects still needing study.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — new darkening triggered by a procedure — is the documented adverse-effect concern with laser and light treatment in melasma. The AAD warns some treatments can irritate darker skin and make melasma darker, and Fraxel's label lists temporary or permanent skin color change among its adverse events. Ask any practice what its plan is if your pigment worsens.
Melasma treatment vs alternatives: which is right for you?
Melasma treatment is less a single choice between a laser and a cream than a stack.
Here is what the evidence says about each layer, with the strength of that evidence:
- Prescription topicals. Hydroquinone and triple-combination cream are the most effective, best-studied melasma treatments in the 2020 review of 113 studies. Triple-combination cream (Tri-Luma, initial US approval 2002) is FDA-approved for short-term treatment of moderate to severe facial melasma with sun avoidance, not for maintenance. In an April 2022 notice, the FDA said that since the CARES Act took effect on September 23, 2020, there have been no FDA-approved or legally marketed over-the-counter hydroquinone skin lighteners in the US, and that Tri-Luma is the only FDA-approved drug containing hydroquinone, available by prescription.
- Gentler topicals. The AAD lists azelaic acid among the gentler prescription options a dermatologist may use for melasma.
- Oral tranexamic acid. Off-label for melasma and prescription-only, used when other treatments fail. A 2024 meta-analysis of 22 randomized trials with 1,280 patients found TXA reduced melasma severity, with the oral form showing the largest MASI reduction. A 2023 network meta-analysis of 6 trials with 599 patients estimated the optimal regimen at 250 mg three times daily for 12 weeks — a research estimate, not an FDA-labeled dose and not a suggestion to ask for it.
- Microneedling plus topicals. A 2022 systematic review of 12 small studies found microneedling combined with topical depigmenting agents more effective than topicals alone, from a small evidence base of mostly low-quality designs.
- Chemical peels. An add-on option ranked equal or inferior to topicals, with higher adverse-effect risk. The FDA advises using chemical peels only under the supervision of a licensed, trained provider. Our chemical peel guide covers the treatment itself.
- Lasers. Low-energy Q-switched Nd:YAG plus topical medication ranked first among laser-related melasma therapies in the 2023 network meta-analysis of 39 studies. The AAD says adding laser or light treatment improved results in a few studies for people already using topicals and sun protection.
- IPL. IPL-based combination therapy reduced MASI scores in the 2020 meta-analysis of 8 studies, with the higher adverse-effect risk described above. Our IPL photofacial guide covers the treatment itself.
Which stack fits you is not a question this page can answer; it depends on your skin, your skin tone, your history and your diagnosis.
What the evidence supports is the shape of the plan: sun protection and topical medication at the base, a procedure added when those are not enough, and a straight conversation about recurrence before anything is booked.
How do you choose a melasma treatment provider near you?
Two rules frame the search.
First, the law: who may perform medical procedures at a med spa, and under what supervision, is set state by state.
AmSpa, the medical spa trade association, says injections of FDA legend (prescription) drugs — botulinum toxin is its example — fall under the practice of medicine, to be done by a physician, an independent-practice NP or another licensed professional acting within their scope, under rules that vary by state.
Ask each practice directly who will perform your procedure and what license that person holds.
Second, the professional standard: the AAD says only a board-certified dermatologist should perform the procedures it lists for melasma.
That is a recommendation from a dermatology society, not a legal requirement — but it tells you what the specialty considers adequate for a condition where the wrong treatment can darken the problem it is meant to fade.
For a fuller framework — credentials, red flags and pricing questions — see our guide to how to choose a med spa.
The melasma-specific version of that checklist:
- Who performs the procedure, and what license and training do they hold?
- Which device and wavelength — and is melasma in its cleared indication for this use?
- How will the plan be adjusted for my skin tone, given the documented risk of darkening?
- Are prescription topicals and sun protection part of the plan, or is the procedure being sold as a stand-alone fix?
- What happens if my pigment worsens after a session?
- What does the full plan cost — sessions, prescriptions and follow-up — and what is the plan when melasma comes back?
Microneedling, the other add-on the AAD lists, has its own guide if you want the detail on that option: how microneedling works and what it costs.
Frequently asked questions
Can a med spa treat melasma?
Med spas offer the add-on layer of melasma care: chemical peels, microneedling and laser or light treatments.
The strongest evidence is for prescription topicals, and the AAD says only a board-certified dermatologist should perform the procedures it lists for melasma.
Who may perform those procedures at a med spa, and under what supervision, is set state by state, so ask who would treat you and what license they hold.
What is the most effective treatment for melasma?
A 2020 evidence-based review of 113 studies with 6,897 participants concluded hydroquinone and triple-combination cream are the most effective, best-studied melasma treatments.
Chemical peels and laser- and light-based therapies ranked equal or inferior to topicals, with a higher risk of adverse effects.
The AAD adds there is no one best treatment: the most effective approach often combines sun protection, topical medication and sometimes a procedure.
Can laser treatment make melasma worse?
It is a documented risk, not a certainty.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — new darkening after a procedure — is the named adverse-effect concern with lasers and lights in melasma compared with topicals.
In one series of 675 Chinese patients with skin types III–IV, 2.96% developed melasma-like hyperpigmentation within 3 months of IPL, mostly people with prior pigment problems or poor sun protection.
The AAD also warns some treatments can irritate darker skin and darken melasma.
Does insurance cover melasma treatment?
Usually not.
The AAD notes melasma treatment is generally not considered medically necessary, so most insurers will not cover it, and it says insurance does not cover chemical peels.
Expect to pay the practice directly, and budget for the full timeline: the AAD says results usually take 3 to 12 months, and long-standing melasma can take longer.
How long does melasma treatment take to work?
The AAD says melasma treatment usually takes 3 to 12 months to show results, and long-standing melasma can take longer.
Session-based plans add their own rhythm: Solta says Fraxel results may show after one treatment but that up to five treatments may be appropriate.
Recurrence rates remain high across all treatment groups, which is why treatment is built as ongoing care rather than a one-time fix.
Is hydroquinone available over the counter?
No. In an April 2022 notice, the FDA said that since the CARES Act took effect on September 23, 2020, there have been no FDA-approved or legally marketed over-the-counter hydroquinone skin lighteners in the US, and that Tri-Luma is the only FDA-approved drug containing hydroquinone, available by prescription.
The Tri-Luma label also warns hydroquinone can cause exogenous ochronosis, a gradual blue-black darkening of the skin.
Sources
Every number on this page comes from one of these sources and was checked against it.
- accessdata.fda.gov · U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- accessdata.fda.gov · U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- MOXI™ Laser by Sciton · sciton.com
- accessdata.fda.gov · U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- Fraxel · fraxel.com
- accessdata.fda.gov · U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- Clear + Brilliant | SMOOTHER AND YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN. ANYTIME. ANYWHERE. · clearandbrilliant.com
- Melasma Treatment: An Evidence-Based Review · McKesey et al., Am J Clin Dermatol, 2020
- Melasma treatment: a systematic review · Neagu et al., J Dermatolog Treat, 2022
- A Meta-analysis-Based Assessment of Intense Pulsed Light for Treatment of Melasma · Yi et al., Aesthetic Plast Surg, 2020
- Efficacy and safety of laser-related therapy for melasma: A systematic review and network meta-analysis · Ma et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2023
- Melasma: Diagnosis and treatment · American Academy of Dermatology
- TRANEXAMIC ACID tablet · DailyMed, U.S. National Library of Medicine
- The optimal dose of oral tranexamic acid in melasma: A network meta-analysis · Wang et al., Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol, 2023
- TRI-LUMA- fluocinolone acetonide, hydroquinone, and tretinoin cream · DailyMed, U.S. National Library of Medicine
- OTC skin lightening products · U.S. Food and Drug Administration
- plasticsurgery.org · American Society of Plastic Surgeons
- Laser Skin Resurfacing Cost · American Society of Plastic Surgeons
- Thermage · thermage.com
- Melasma: Overview · American Academy of Dermatology
- Tranexamic acid as a therapeutic option for melasma management: meta-analysis and systematic review of randomized controlled trials · Calacattawi et al., J Dermatolog Treat, 2024
- Systematic review of clinical studies assessing the needling for treatment of melasma: Focusing on efficacy, safety, and recurrence rate · Sadeghzadeh-Bazargan et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2022
- Laser therapy in the treatment of melasma: a systematic review and meta-analysis · Lai et al., Lasers Med Sci, 2022
- Melasma-like hyperpigmentation induced by intense pulsed light treatment in Chinese individuals · Fang et al., J Cosmet Laser Ther, 2014
- Chemical peels: Overview · American Academy of Dermatology
- What can get rid of age spots? · American Academy of Dermatology
- What Are the Rules for Who Can Inject Neurotoxins? · American Med Spa Association
Medical disclaimer. MedSpaStandard is for education only and is not medical advice. Talk to a licensed provider about your own health, and check any provider's license with your state board.